December 6, 20171 Comment




Materials: Red oak facing wood veneer, and Astroparche aged parchment card stock 65lb paper were used as main. Some black paper (that was approximately card stock thickness as well) and 0.01" thickness acetate paper were partially used for the placement of photo-resistors and islands of timezones.

Since I've been keep using new materials every week, I decided to use something I'm bit more familiar along with something unknown. I first wanted to get decent card stock papers from PaperWorks, but soon I realized it will cost more money and time away from RI. I moved on to find similar material from Amazon. Initially city names were written in moderate etching, but after I found I it's easier to read the city names when they're slightly burnt out on the edges (comparing two Alaska with different laser cutting speed settings), I rather started cutting them than etching.

Putting wood veneer underneath paper was more of an accident. After I finished laser cutting, I didn't have space so I just pile the paper up on the wood veneer and found out their color palettes are well matching. However, wood veneer was hard to cut with knife or make hinge with it because it's natural wood and has irregular surface. Therefore, I used cardboard as a hinge and cut 1" lines of wood veneer with scissors. The wood veneer I got is pre-glued, which made me to use the iron in the Soft lab.

Following ThisToThat's advice, I decided to use Sobo. 3M 77 is in spray type that isn't convenient for small size application, and although I was interested in Yamato glue I got Sobo due to easier accessibility. After testing on small piece of wood veneer, I start applying it overall.

Least favorite part: placing the timezone pieces with masking tape before gluing.




November 29, 20171 Comment


Process/wth is this:

Many advices I got last week were just purchase hemispheres already if I'm interested in. So, hemispheres were purchased, but the problem was how to make it rotate - one method came in my mind was having ring that can be screwed with the hemisphere edge.

Its diameter is 18" and the edge part is 3/4". The screw holes that came with were useless because they didn't even match each other.

Initially I thought of making all 8 parts in the sketch. I don't know why and fortunately I realized that I only need three parts: top, bottom, and middle part that contains light source (indicated as yellow in the upper sketch).

All ring parts will have 1" height excluding hemisphere edge thickness in order to have adequate space to put through axis later. Some things I purchased as well are binding barrels and screws. However, while waiting for them to arrive I tried to think of how to make the middle/light part with standoffs. The standoffs I got from Huiyi had 2/8", 3/8", 6/8", and 7/8" lengths. Based on those options I had, I decided to use 4 of 3/8 standoffs and 1/16" acrylic sheets.

...but the design could've been constantly modified only because I made prototype with cardboard. By making the prototype, I could check and fix the general scale and positioning.

I haven't got to the soldering part for the acrylic version, because I was still unsure about (1) how would I attach components (2) the required distance for light to activate photosensors. The prototype was given for testing! Have fun Huiyi.

Another problem I encounter was that I couldn't half cut and fold acrylic sheet as cardboard for switch and led parts. I kept go through the Intro to Fab week 4 post to get any inspiration. Then, I saw the (weird) mini hinges I got for the previous module project.

I made two holes per a hinge in bigger size than they used to be, with drill. They function the same way as attachment blocks.

The wooden top and bottom parts were made with band saw and Dremel, using the same way and material as my previous module exercise.



November 14, 20171 Comment



There has been some changes in the timezone project ideas since the last user testing that Huiyi and I conducted. Now the structure will be consisted of two layers: the cylinder-shaped timezone map and transparent sphere surrounding the cylinder. The reason Huiyi and I made this decision is because as users encounter a globe, they instantly wanted to spin it. The timezone map itself has delicate outline that won't allow people to touch and move it. Therefore, we've decided to build the second layer that is tangible, and will also give a feeling of the celestial sphere.

The part I wanted to try making this week was the second layer. Due to its character of containing the main content, it has to be transparent. However, regarding its size and its complex shape, I've rather decided to test the scale and structure with mat board than using acrylic.

These are references that I found in internet, which I still haven't memorize their names. Basically Hectohexecontadihedron is made out of 18 sections and Hebdomicontadissaedron is made out of 12 sections from the top view. Although Hectohexecontadihedron is more commonly use for building globe shape, I decided to use Hebdomicontadissaedron because the inner cylinder will be made out of 24 sections, which is the double of 12, and I like having relationship among numbers.

I first attempted to use Adobe Illustrator, but it was hard to build or even imagine 3D shape like this in 2D space. Another attempt was directly importing the reference I found into Illustrator and Rhino (which is visible in first and second screenshots). After many unsuccessful trials, I just decided to build my own Hebdomicontadissaedron. It was quite challenging for me because I don't have much experience with Rhino. Then, I flatten the structure I made and import it back to Illustrator.

First I followed the recommended setting for using mat board, which is 50 speed/50 power/500 freq. After checking my board getting barely cut out, I tried different settings such as lowering speed and raising power. As I lower the speed, I start catching some "birthday-candle size fires" - so I immediately canceled the work and instead start adjusting power. I ended up with 50 speed/90 power/500 freq setting and making the shapes to be cut twice by doubling the lines. For horizontal line, I didn't double them because I wanted to fold them and not cut them completely.

...and Ben was right about the laser cutter. As I arrived to use it, it was already out of order. Fortunately, it was on its way of being repaired, but I spent 2/3 of my timeslot just watching it to be fixed.

As the last step, I assembled them with clear tape.

Having some unnecessary fun with the previously built flashlight that has nothing to do with my timezone project.



  1. If this structure has to be transparent, what material will be the best choice?
  2. What thickness will be ideal to have right amount of firmness - so people can handle it?
  3. If using acrylic, is acrylic glue the best way to assemble this structure? Or should I keep this kind of skeletal base that supports the assembling parts?

November 7, 20172 Comments



The basic idea was building supporting panel for my timezone map, which I can possibly attach or lean the map on the bottom part thus the whole piece can stand stable and also foldable. As soon as I got the idea, I start building mock ups with paper and board scraps.

Visiting Metropolitan Lumber & Hardware at 175 Spring St to get 1 in thickness lumber.

... and made a big mistake of buying hinges with way too small sizes. It's also visible in the first mock up - I somehow imagined to attach hinge in the front part and thought the hinge size < 0 .75" because lower height than 0.75 will have some slope and wouldn't be available to attach hinge. Later, I realize my brain did something bad and repurchased adequate size of hinges.

Using my sketch and jig to accelerate the process.

But I ended up with many "first-pancakes" due to miserable measurement. It was more noticeable especially due to its small size. Nonetheless, I brought them home to see how they look like with the whole piece. They definitely looked bulky, which led me to later cut out some portion from original shape.

Next day, I went to the shop to give a second shot and realize that the attached jig on the band saw gets tilted if it's tightened. Although the band saw wasn't the most ideal tool to have precise cut, I found another reason that made my cutting extra inaccurate.

Then the next step was just repeating the same step as the day before - except not using the attached jig on the band saw. The other trick I added was rather cutting half length and flip it to cut the rest of the half than cutting in one time, so I can minimize the error even if the saw travels to a wrong path. In result, I got much more satisfying "pancakes" than the previous ones.

Next step was modifying the shape. I assume this could've done in easier and simpler way but as usual I walked in to the difficult way. After testing with some "first-pancakes", I've decided to roughly cut the shape with band saw and then sand it.

Regarding the module's size and my finger's safety, the process required another jig.

Fixing with C-clamp and sanding with Dremel.

... and I just had to go with mini hinges. Because these don't have screws, I made holes with smallest drill bit and later applied them with wood glue.



October 31, 20172 Comments





Materials: 1w star led, 2 transparent plastic cups (should be identical sizes), toggle switch, AA battery holder for 3V. Thin straws were meant to be used for wire holder, but got excluded during the process because they rather made the structure more complicated than making it simple.

First, I heated up the needle (the one I used was bookbinding needle :/) with lighter, than made two holes for wires. One hole is for plus and the other is for ground.

The next step was placement of toggle switch. I marked the approximate location of the switch and made holes with heated needle as I did for wires. The battery holder was attached with glue gun, but the switch and led were attached with super glue.

Soldering time! Ground (directly from the battery container) and plus wires got soldered to the led. Then both of the plus wires attached to the led and the battery container got soldered to the toggle switch.

Last step was cutting out some space from the second cup for toggle switch and overlaying it. By putting the second layer, the led is now protected and the flashlight can stand upside - pretending to be a normal cup.

To make it more dynamic, there can be different colors or textures applied to the second cup!